Sunday 17 June - Maribo to Bandholm Steam Railway

Today was the first day using our Eurail pass.  We took a Danish ICE train to Nykoping.  This looks like the German high speed trains but is a diesel set.  This train was going through to Hamburg and would use a train ferry to get to Germany.  At one point we crossed a long road and rail bridge presumably passing from Zealand to Lolland.

It may look like a high speed train but is certainly isn't

From Nykoping to Maribo we used a two car diesel set of the Lollandbane local railway.  They accepted our pass without question although there was no first class.

Local railway train at Maribo

It was difficult to get information at Maribo until we finally found a small notice in Danish and German saying that the Museumbane left from platform 2.  Just about then we heard a steam engine whistle and a small train backed into platform 2.  The conductor spoke quite good English and confirmed the timetable and other details.

There was time to go into Maribo to get something to eat and drink at the only fast food place open then get on the train.  

The bakery was the only other business open - and that closed at 1500.

The conductor was selling Edmondson sized card tickets from a wooden pouch which was hanging around his neck.  Modern railways don't use these card tickets any more.  The power is a very small 1903 built 0-4-0WT which only has a steam brake.  The train of four wheeled coaches has continuous brakes but they use hand brakes.  It backs out on the main line for a short distance to the museum siding then runs forward to Bandholm.  The pace is very slow which gives an opportunity to admire the scenery - market gardening and forests.  At Bandholm there is a pause for the engine to take water and the passengers to visit the small museum and then we were off on the final part the Bandholm Harbour.  It wasn't much more than 200 yards and the track just ends at a road.  It is close to the water and we marvelled at the number of swans - at least 40 that we could see.

The track just ends at Bandholm Harbour

A short burst on the steam whistle and the half a dozen or so passengers scurried back to the train which backed up to Bandholm.  The engine ran around and we ran back to Maribo where we reversed into the platform after the train to Nykoping had left.  The engine runs around the train on the main line.

With about 45 minutes to wait for the next train back Colin went into see what there was to see in Maribo.  Not much happening on a Sunday afternoon.

Maribo back yards are well kept.  The buildings are either bare brick or painted a yellow-ochre colour.

We caught a diesel railcar back to Nykoping where a diesel powered double decker train took us back to Copenhagen.  First class on the top level is comfortable.

Click below to see a slide show of all pictures of the Maribo Steam Railway.

Click below to see a slide show of all pictures taken while staying in Copenhagen

Saturday 16 June - Roskilde Viking Boats and Helsingor

At the DSB ticket office I asked for tickets for Roskilde and return.  The lady sold us an all zones 24 hour pass.  With this we were able to go to Roskilde and back then to Helsingor and finally we took a short trip in Copenhagen itself including the new automatic subway.

A short train ride brought us to Roskilde this morning.  The tourist office provided a very useful map and we used it to walk by the cathedral to the Viking Ship Museum.

These large vases in the Horse Market were put there to commemorate Roskilde's millennium in 1998.

Roskilde has a large number of interesting old  buildings.

We arrived at the ticket office just in time to go on the first of the Viking ship rides.  When the captain gave us our instructions it was clear that we were expected to do some rowing.  The captain spoke to the Danes to ask if they understood English then spoke in English for the rest of the time - for our benefit.

The captain explained to us how to use the oars. After he finished this part I asked him if he had any tips on raping and pillaging but he didn't have anything to offer.  The rowing was relatively easy although we had to be careful to follow the person in front.

Our boat.

Another Viking boat viewed from the water.

A crew member helped raise and lower the sail and kept the kids in order.

After the boat ride the museum proved very interesting with the remains of the vessels that have been found and raised.

Back at the station we quickly found a train back to Copenhagen only to discover that the trains to Helsingor were backed up.  We caught the next one which was turned back at the station before Helsingor (Snekkersten).  We had only to wait a couple of minutes for a cross platform transfer into the train from Hillerod.  Helsingor was dead on Saturday afternoon and bearing in mind the rain and thunder we decided to take an early train back to Copenhagen.

Reputed to be Elsinore of Hamlet fame.

Colin had a Shakespeare moment.  "Alas poor Yorrick.  I knew him well."  Couldn't find an excuse for "A hit, a palpable hit."  This was a small door in the side of the Helsingor cathedral.

Our zone tickets were still good so we took the S-tog to Norrport and transferred to the metro to Kongens Nytorv.  The platforms have barriers with full doors.  A very impressive system.  We had a drink at a pub that was established in 1723 and then walked along the tourist strip to find somewhere to eat.  We decided to eat inside as it was spitting with rain.  There were plenty of people outside sitting on the sidewalk drinking prodigious amounts of beer.

View from our table

 Mary had an avocado and chicken salad while I had a plate of three types of open face sandwiches (beef with horseradish, fried fish and egg, shrimp and caviar).

Three types of open faced sandwich.  There was bread in there hidden beneath the lettuce.

For dessert we had waffle cones with ice cream and wandered along the street looking at the lightship then admiring the view from the canal bridge.

A preserved light ship.  The house where Hans Christian Andersen stayed is the red one to the far left.

Friday 15 June - Copenhagen

The hotel directory reads in part, "This part of Vesterboro has always been very colourful, and the red light district on Istedgade, from the central train station up to the crossing at Gasvaerksvej, is not entirely suitable for children or sensitive temperaments.  Hotel Guldsmeden cooperated with a number of organizations who address these issues, and work to improve living conditions for the socially challenged, and to prevent human trafficking.  From Gasvaerksvej and up, Istedgade is however, one of te most fun and original shopping streets in out neighbourhood!

Some of the buildings in this area are beautiful and the hotel across the street has the date 1787 on it.  The brick and tilework is exquisite.

We found the Carling Glyptotek didn't open until 1100 so walked across town to the Royal Gardens where we used the royal conveniences.

Kids were playing rounders in the park.  It's similar to baseball but several runners may be at the same base at the same time. There were several other types of games played including petanque and croquet.

We had great difficulty in finding the entrance to the botanical gardens but enjoyed walking around until we were told they were closed so we would have to go out the way we got in.

At least the Kunst museum was open and we found the exhibits interesting. However the French impressionists were third rate while the Danish pictures were excellent.

 

And they call this art!

Lunch at the museum was two types of pickled herring which came with a container of dripping.  It was pretty good without the dripping (bacon fat) and very filling.  We both felt that the pickled herring at Le Grand Colbert in Paris is superior as this was somewhat sweet.

Two types of herring with two types of fat.

A pair of swans guided their brood down the lake, moved off a couple on a picnic, and then took them to the next lake.

 After lunch we walked around the park just outside the museum and a quick look at the map showed that we were very close to Osterport, the station we used yesterday so we took the S-tog back to Central station.

Tivoli Gardens is a must see for any visitor to Copenhagen.  It is one of the oldest amusement parks but still manages to provide a lot of fun for everybody and draws in the crowds.  It is right next to Central Station and many people must use public transit to get there although there were bikes piled up everywhere.

There is something for everyone from fine dining to fish and chips and hot dogs, sugar candy etc.  Beer is readily available at 15 kroner a (plastic) glass.

 If you buy 5 glasses of beer you get a handy carry carton.

 The place is very well kept and the gardens are pleasant in themselves.

The Pirate ship is a restaurant

There were peacocks, including albinos as well as Muscovy ducks wandering around, especially where popcorn was being sold.  Some chocolate headed terns were also flying around.  They were banded so maybe they were meant to be there.  A stolid ballet performance of Ravel's Bolero kept people interested. There was a rock concert performance later and the crowds were getting very heavy when we left.

Wednesday 14 June - Sightseeing in Copenhagen

In the coffee shop at breakfast.

The station has a high wooden roofed concourse which is very attractive.  The exterior is in a pleasant brick.

 Cyclists are everywhere and some of the women cyclists are in high heels.

Copenhagen has a great number of pastry shops and the streets are streets filled with good smells.

The signs above the shops are many and varied.

This seems to be commonly used by pastry shops

The space has been taken over by a massage parlor but they have kept the locksmith's sign.

The cathedral was very peaceful and the organist was practicing.
Several men were acting as human signposts.  They stand on a street corner holding a sign pointing to a restaurant.

Buses fly two national flags like in Bordeaux.

 We visited the Royal Copenhagen shop where there were coffee cups selling for over $100.

The  Canal (anal) tour was pretty interesting - we were given a canaloscopy).  There were two school parties but the kids were extremely well behaved.  A kid with his mother was eating a croissant in a great shower of crumbs.
It was explained that one of the naval vessels accidentally fired off a missile which destroyed four cottages and damaged 130.  It was known as the "whoopsie missile".
After the canal cruise we made our way to the Little Mermaid, stopping off at a Sand Structure exhibit and the Royal Palace.

The Anglican church is made with flints using Swedish stone.  Several jackdaws were foraging around the trash bin.

This is the icon of Copenhagen.  There were a lot of tourists there but it was easy to take a picture without getting anyone else in.

Returning on the S-tog was complicated by the fact that four ticket machines were out of order at the Osterport station while one of the trains doors was locked out of order.  A cardinal sin in my safety book.

The S-tog at Osterport

Travel Ottawa to Frankfurt - June 12-13

The Air Canada flight to Frankfurt wasn't very good.  The crew had great difficulty in smiling and I felt quite cramped.  We were late in arriving at Frankfurt and it took 15 minutes to taxi in.  It was like being on a plane moving down a country lane.  Then we had to get a bus to the terminal.  Even so we had plenty of time to make the connection to Copenhagen.  Our bags made it in good time and I bought a DSB ticket to get us into town.  The electric trains are fast, comfortable and quiet.  The ride is excellent because the rails are all welded and the announcements, both visual and audible, mean that you cannot get lost.

We chose a hotel which was close to the station and walked there in about five minutes.  The buildings in this area are mainly built of brick.  I don't suppose there is much stone available in this area.

After a short rest we went back to the station to get our rail pass validated and I bought a local sim card for the smart phone.  Significantly cheaper than in Canada.

This part of Copenhagen seems well worn and a little run down.  We walked along to see City Hall and the statue of Hans Christian Anderson then bought some food and called it quits for the day.

zzz