Friday 21 December - The Fountains of Paris

For the inauguration of tramway T3b the City of Paris commissioned five water fountains from Pascale Marthine Tayou.  These have been placed on the sidewalks close to the Porte de Montreuil tram stop.  They are called "Poings (fists) d'eau") because the water spout is in the form of a casting of the artist's right arm and fist.  We went out and were able to find them although they were not all in the position shown by the City in their exhibition pamphlet.

Model E on the west side

Model A on the east side.  This one was the fourth we had found and we were looking for the last one when three schoolchildren came by and played around.  We asked if there was another one.  They said yes but they were too busy to show us where as they had to run across the street to catch the tram to school.

Model D on the west side.  Note a street person has erected a tent over a warm air vent from the subway.

Model C on the west side

Model B on the east side.  This was the last one we found.  A local lady passing by asked what it was so we had to go into great detail to tell her about it.  She had not noticed any before although they were erected in October.

One presses the button and water comes out of the clenched fist.  None of them were working when we saw them.

I decided to go on to Porte de Charenton to take a look at the TGV sidings that Denis Desmarais always talks about.  As usual they were chock a block with TGVs of all types, including a Postal Train.

The Yardmaster's job must be a busy one.

The world rail record holder was in - 574.8 km/h on 3 April 2007.  There is a special plate at each doorway emphasizing the speed record made by this train.

I have finally caught up with 17058 in Saint Lazare

I first saw 17058 entering Saint Lazare station in February 1974.

 

Thursday 20 December - Dijon in the rain

The weather forecast was bad this morning but we had TGV tickets for a round trip to Dijon so we went anyway.  Metro line 14 brought us quickly to the Gare de Lyon in good time for the 0823 Lyria service to Zurich, first stop Dijon.  It was one of the fairly new double deck trains which was quite comfortable but a little cramped and with little luggage space.  It was dark with low clouds when we left and stayed that way all day.  Several streams along the route had broken their banks and there was extensive flooding in many parts. The weather could only be described as filthy.

At Dijon we found the Tourist Office in the station complex which includes SNCF, local buses and the new tramway.  Armed with maps we set off in the rain.  The city has set out a tourist walking route with nicely cast yellow metal arrows set in the sidewalks.  These are very close together (every couple of metres or so) and show which crosswalks to use.  A larger cast metal plate (about 15 inches) square is placed at locations where one should pause to view the sights.

Dijon has a great number of interesting historic buildings and it was a great shame that we couldn't enjoy them properly in the rain.

Decoration on the Post Office Building

Les Halles is an enormous market constructed in four sections with the roofs joined.  It is light, open and airy.  The largest covered market I think I have seen.

 

The organ in Notre Dame.  This is where Jean-Phillipe Rameau (1683-1764) spent many years.  The organ has been replaced since his time.

Whimsy on a roof

Interesting carvings on the half timbered buildings.

We found a dry, warm restaurant for lunch.  

Veloute de lentilles avec coquilles St. Jacques

Magret de canard avec petit pois.

Bottle of Cote de Beaune.

We continued on our walk but the rains was as heavy as ever and we eventually said "bugrit" and decided to ride the trams - at least they would be warm and dry.  The ticket machine would not accept our credit cards supposedly because they were not on a French bank and would only accept coins. We took the tram on line T1 all the way out from the station to Quetigny Centre and then back again.

At Gare

Quetigny Centre

They have chosen to have a wide ledge on the left hand side rather than make the aisle wider.  The trams are full already after less than six months of operation.

Godrans

I am informed by my color consultant that the trams are painted fuschia which seems to be the color chosen by the city.  All city uniforms use this color while the buses and vehicles as well as crash barriers etc. are all painted fuschia.

Coming back to Paris we had reservations on a TGV from Mulhouse.  This turned out to be a surprise.  TGV set 25 is one of the first series of TGVs built in the late 1970s but it has been nicely renovated and there is much more room than in the later double deck versions.  Plenty of space for luggage. 

Our return to Paris was pleasant and on time.  Thus ended a soggy day.
Click below to see all pitcures taken of Dijon trams

Click below to see all pictures taken at Dijon

Wednesday 19 December - Buttes Chaumon and Chapeau Rouge

We took the metro to Buttes Chaumont and walked around the well-kept park.  I have been here so many times that I concentrated on different items to photograph.

Moss on a concrete parapet

The green is real but the wood is reinforced concrete which has been used in the Paris parks for over 100 years

For a change we walked east from Buttes Chaumont to visit the Parc du Butte du Chapeau Rouge for the first time.  This is another formal park but laid out over some hilly ground to provide some interesting perspectives.

These trees have all been cut at the same height to give a flat topped impression to the hill.

It is not common to see mistletoe in Paris parks

We walked along to the Hopital Robert Debret tram stop and caught a tram to Port de Vincennes.  The tram was full all the way.  Just south of Porte de Bagnolet we spotted two of the five water fountains commissioned by the city for the opening of the new tramway - we'll have to go back and find the others.

Tram leaving Hopital Robert Debret for Porte de la Chapelle.

At Porte de Vincennes there was a large crowd waiting for the next tram north.

Mary's RATP ticket would not work the barrier at Villiers this morning.  The station attendant said that the ticket had become demagnetized.  On looking at Mary's purse it became obvious why - the pocket on one side, which held the tickets, was held closed by two very strong magnets.  A magnetectomy was carried out on the purse and we hope this has solved the problem.

The Little Old Lady in Monoprix
We went into the dry goods part of Monoprix.  Everywhere we went we were preceded by a little old lady who tottered along with her shopping cart .  No matter which aisle we wanted to go up she was there just ahead of us.  We finally found what we were looking for and were heading for the cash only to be stopped by her at the end of the aisle.  At least we managed to get ahead of her at the cash. Mary has the theory that this the store detective and is a man in disguise keeping a track on the honesty of the customers.

This evening we ate at le Bistro de'I-D.   Mary had chicken in a lemon sauce with beans while I had duck breast with potatoes.  Its probably the closest restaurant to the apartment.  Very good value with a great local atmosphere.

Tuesday 18 December - Provins

Dogs are not allowed in the cheese shops on the rue de Levis

 Provins is in RATP zone 5. The regular fare is 11.05 euros each way but a zone 5 mobilis ticket costs only 15.35 which gives unlimited rides for the day. The #30 bus to Gare due l'Est is direct but slower than the metro but there is more to see.

There are still plenty of diesel hauled trains in the Gare de l'Est

The trains to Provins are bi-mode as they operate as straight electrics under the wires or by a diesel engine in non-electrified territory. The first half an hour is nonstop through the Paris suburbs. The diesel engine was turned on at full speed as we approached the end of the electric territory.  There is a change of direction at Longueville.

At Longueville there was a long wait for the train to come up on the single line from Paris.These four car units are known as bibi - bimodal (electric/diesel electric) and bivoltage (1500vDC/25kv AC)

It was raining on and off as we made our way towards the historic area but the signs to the Tourist Office were sporadic and we never did find it.  Most of the attractions were closed at this time of the year anyway.

Upper town

Upper town

We made our way back to the lower town and decided to eat lunch at L'Estaminet.  The service was French provincial but the cuisine was very good indeed.

Poireau vinaigrette/salade au saucisson pistache

Beef with carrots/pot au feu

Salade au saucisson pistache

It seems pretty damp here in general and moss grows well

A short walk around in sun-rain-sun/rain and we caught the train back to the Gare de l'Est where we caught one of the frequent #30 buses back.
Click below to see all pictures taken at Provins in slideshow format.

With the rest of the day still available on our mobilis tickets we decided to take the bus across the Etoile to the Trocadero to see the Eiffel Tower lit up on the hour.  The trip across the Etoile was marred because a couple of people wanted to get off so the bus was forced to stay in the second or third lane but it was worth it for the view of the traffic all seemingly wanting to go in different directions and the motor bikes and scooters dodging all around.  The view of the Eiffel Tower was excellent and we caught the bus back but decided to stay on and go to Anvers to take the funicular up to Sacre Coeur.  We arrived at the top just in time for the next hourly lighting of the Eiffel Tower.

The Eiffel Tower lit up and regular from Sacre Coeur

A final use of the day's mobilis ticket was to go down the Montmartre funicular and take the metro back to Villiers.

Monday December 17 - Musee de l'Orangerie

Entry ticket to the Musee de l'Orangerie

This was our first visit to the Musee de l'Orangerie.  From the outside the building looks large but it is quite small inside.  The staff were not very pleasant or helpful and one had the feeling they would have preferred to have been somewhere else.

There are two large rooms devoted to the enormous works by Monet using the water at Giverny as his inspiration.  They are all on large curved canvasses and are very impressive.  The rest of the exhibition is a small but very good collection of impressionists Cezanne, Renoir, Picasso, Rousseau, Modigliani, Matisse, Utrillo etc.  It is a similar to the Courtauld collection in London, small but well chosen.

I found  way to take a picture of the Eiffel Tower in the Gare Saint Lazare

A couple more pictures of faces in Saint Lazare that only a mother would love/

On the right is one of the new locomotives.  These turned out to be considerably longer than the locomotives they replaced - so long in fact that the trains were too long for some stations.  One passenger car was removed from each train - problem solved

Sunday December 16 - Two flaneurs

In Canada the word "flaner" seems to have a negative connotation of "loitering with intent".  However, in France "flaner" means to wander around with no real goal in mind watching what is going on around you, enjoying the sights and going where your fancy takes you.
The rue de Levis was very, very busy this morning.

Engrossed in the music

Wanna buy a table?

Wanna buy a mattress?

The bakers were especially busy and all had long line ups.  Many people were walking around with baguettes with then end broken off - good to eat on the way home.  The butchers were doing a good trade in roast chicken and roast potatoes.  Pheasant, partridge and leg of deer were also available.  One butcher had a dead duck draped across the counter - with the feathers still on.

The man selling roasted chestnuts at the top of the stairs to the metro at Villiers was arrested yesterday.  It looks as if he was selling contraband cigarets as well.

We went to Gare Saint Lazare to admire the recently renovated concourse with its large illuminated Eiffel Tower - too big to photograph.  We were happy to see that the pile of clocks at the front has survived the work.

This whimsical piece has stood outside the Gare Saint Lazare for Many years now.  The pigeons love it - equally do the people.

Another oldie built in 1965-8

Another oldie built in 1965-8

Au Printemps and Galleries Lafayette are always fun at this time of year and the kids enjoy the viewing platforms.  However, the puppets were all the same this year and the displays were nothing special. There were fully armed soldiers patrolling the crowds.  Maybe they shoot pick pockets here.  It was noticeable that the roasted chestnut sellers with their shopping carts and braziers stood in the middle of the sidewalk where they created the most congestion - there were normally a couple of pick pockets close by waiting to take advantage of the confusion.

Au Printemps

Au Printemps

The art deco dome at Galleries Lafayette is always a wonder to behold.

In the gormet food section of Galleries Lafayette I found this Bells de Sancerre, a Loire Valley goat cheese which I have never seen before.